You found two necklaces that look identical. One is €25, the other €140. One says "gold plated", the other "14k gold filled". Six months later, the first one has a green tinge around the clasp and the gold has worn through at the edges. The second one still looks new. This article explains exactly why — and how to tell the difference before you buy.
The short answer
Gold plated is a microscopically thin layer of gold applied to a base metal using electricity. Gold filled is a substantial layer of solid gold — legally at least 1/20th (5%) of the item's total weight — mechanically bonded to a brass core under heat and pressure. The gold layer on gold filled jewelry is typically 50 to 100 times thicker than on plated jewelry. That single difference is why one lasts months and the other lasts decades.
How gold plating works
In electroplating, the base metal item is submerged in a solution containing gold ions and an electric current draws a thin film of gold onto the surface. The resulting layer is usually measured in microns — often just 0.5 microns on cheap fashion jewelry. There is no mechanical bond, just a surface deposit. Friction from skin, clothing and cleaning gradually wears it away, exposing the base metal underneath. That base metal is what reacts with skin and moisture, causing discoloration and, for some people, irritation.
"Vermeil" (pronounced ver-may) is a step up: sterling silver base with at least 2.5 microns of gold. Better than standard plating, still far thinner than gold filled.
How gold filled works
Gold filled is made by bonding a sheet of solid gold to a brass core using heat and pressure — a mechanical bond, not a deposit. The result is a material, not a coating. When you see "14k gold filled", it means the gold layer is 14 karat gold and makes up at least 5% of the item's total weight. In the United States this is legally regulated; jewelry that does not meet the 1/20 threshold cannot be sold as gold filled.
Because the layer is so much thicker, gold filled jewelry can be worn daily for 10 to 30 years without the gold wearing through. It does not flake, and it very rarely causes the skin reactions associated with exposed base metals.
Gold filled vs. plated vs. solid gold
Durability
Solid gold lasts a lifetime. Gold filled realistically lasts 10–30 years with normal wear. Plated jewelry often shows wear within 6–24 months, depending on how often it is worn.
Price
Solid 14k gold is many times the price of gold filled. Gold filled typically costs somewhat more than plated — and dramatically less than solid gold, while looking and behaving almost identically on the skin.
Care
Plated jewelry needs to be babied and still fades. Gold filled tolerates daily wear, water contact and skin oils. Solid gold is the most forgiving of all.
Is gold filled the same as solid gold?
No — and we would never claim it is. Gold filled has a brass core. What it offers is the visual and practical experience of gold at a fraction of the price, with genuine longevity. For a handmade piece meant to be worn often rather than kept in a safe, that trade-off makes sense.
Why NÙA chooses 14k gold filled
Every NÙA necklace and bracelet closes with a 14k gold filled or sterling silver clasp — never plated. The reason is simple: we build jewelry around baroque pearls and natural shells that will still be beautiful in twenty years. Pairing them with a clasp that flakes after one summer would be a waste of the pearl, of the artisan's work, and of your money.
Our pieces are made to order in Bali by local artisans, and the clasp is often the part that takes the most abuse — fingers, friction, sweat. Gold filled is the material that holds up there. You can read more about our materials on our craftsmanship page.
How to care for gold filled jewelry
Very little is needed. Wipe with a soft cloth after wearing, keep it away from harsh chemicals and chlorine, and store it dry. It will not tarnish the way sterling silver does, and it will not need replating — because there is nothing to replate.
What to look for when buying
Reputable sellers state the material explicitly: "14k gold filled", "gold vermeil", "gold plated", or "solid 14k gold". Vague terms like "gold tone", "gold finish" or "gold colour" almost always mean thin plating. If a seller cannot tell you what the metal actually is, that is your answer.
Ready for jewelry that keeps its glow? Browse our handmade pearl necklaces and bracelets, all finished with 14k gold filled or sterling silver clasps. Free shipping on orders over €200.