Not all pearls are the same, even when they look alike in a photo. Freshwater and Akoya are the two types shoppers compare most often, and the differences between them explain a lot of the price gap you will see between necklaces that otherwise look similar.
Where each pearl comes from
Freshwater pearls are grown in mussels living in lakes and rivers, mostly in China. A single mussel can produce several pearls at once, which is part of why freshwater pearls are more widely available and more affordable. Akoya pearls are saltwater pearls, grown in oysters off the coast of Japan and China, and each oyster typically produces only one pearl per cycle.
Shape and roundness
Akoya pearls are known for being almost perfectly round, with a very consistent, glassy surface. Freshwater pearls range from round to slightly oval to distinctly baroque and irregular. This is not a flaw. Irregular freshwater pearls have become a design feature in their own right, prized for the organic, one-of-a-kind shapes that no two pearls share.
Luster: the real giveaway
Luster is the sharp, mirror-like reflection you see on a pearl's surface, and it is the single biggest quality signal in any pearl. Akoya pearls are famous for exceptionally bright, sharp luster because of a thicker, denser nacre coating built up over a longer growing period. Good freshwater pearls can also have beautiful luster, but it tends to look softer and more satin-like rather than mirror-bright.
Price
Because of the growing process, one-oyster-one-pearl yield, and superior average luster, Akoya pearls generally cost significantly more than freshwater pearls of a similar size. Freshwater pearls give you a way to wear real, natural pearls without the Akoya price tag, which is why they dominate everyday and layering jewelry.
Which one is right for you
If you want the classic, uniformly round "pearl necklace" look and are willing to pay for it, Akoya is the traditional choice. If you want pearls with natural texture and character, or you are building a collection to layer and mix, freshwater pearls offer more design freedom for the price. At NÙA, our pieces are built around freshwater and baroque pearls specifically because their irregular, sculptural shapes pair so well with handmade gold filled settings, and because they let more people own genuine, ethically sourced pearl jewelry.
How to tell them apart when shopping online
Look closely at the listing photos. Perfectly uniform, glossy spheres usually point to Akoya or a round freshwater strand. Necklaces where every pearl looks a little different in shape and shine are almost always freshwater. When in doubt, check the product description: reputable sellers will always state the pearl type.